The Big Trip North, 19 to 28 October 2008

19 October 2008
14:05 – on the road again (255235 kms) and off on our first planned big trip. Planned as in the time off is planned and we are heading north – that’s it. Don’t plan too much otherwise you miss out on being able to stop where you fancy, and miss out on all sorts. Beautiful day – not a cloud in the sky, but not super warm yet, only 20⁰. Stop in Cromwell: shopping, gas, diesel and say hi to Kirsty. Then heading north! 16:04 – parked in beautiful spot beside Lake Dunstan, opposite Bendigo Station, called Rocky Point – decided we wouldn’t drive too far today! 19:24 – have had a lovely afternoon – nice weather and we rang Kirsty and said to come and join us for a drink, so we’ve had a great old day. Poor old Kirsty though, had to get into the water to wash Benny after he’d somehow got covered in fish oil. Kirsty left at 18:30, had a few more drinks, tea (chicken with apricot/cream cheese on ciabatta and Caesar salad). Oh – we listened to the Dixie Chicks on DVD on our brand new laptop – Mike in techonological (spelt that way on purpose!) heaven. Bed at 22:00.


20 October 2008
Up at 07:50 after a very warm but blustery night. 09:00 on the road, after brekkie of toasted muffins. 11:48 – stopped at High Country Salmon for some smoked salmon for trip, and Twizel to buy a telescopic fishing rod for Marielle. Now heading north – and to find somewhere for lunch. 13:09 – had lunch same as last night’s tea – at awesome picnic/camp spot on right just before Mt Cook turn off. Lots of little tuck in spots, big pond – really pretty. 14:10 – heading down Haldom Road towards Lake Benmore (after Lake Tekapo, turn off at Dog Kennel Corner). Chris had told Mike about this, so decided to go and check it out. Overcast, blowing (pedal to the metal between Pukaki and Tekapo and only doing 90km) and 15.6⁰. 50kms later, we are just about at Ohau C – once again!!!! Maggie’s magic has taken us right back to where we started – in sight of a powerstation!! Talk about going in circles at times – but at least here the scenery is better than the Maniototo. 16:00 – all parked up, past Haldom Camp (too civilised for us!) on opposite bank of river to last week along the banks of Lake Benmore. And joy – Roxie has rediscovered the pleasure of chasing (and sometimes catching) skinks, so that’s now 2 nights in a row we haven’t had to entertain her by throwing rocks. Did have to bath her (in a blowing wind and not that warm, and I had to get in the water with her!) because Roxie decided she’d copy Benny and roll in something yuck!! Had spaghetti and Mike’s meatballs for tea, watched/listened to Fleetwood Mac, bed at 21:45.

21 October 2008
Up at 07:36, 1.3⁰, sunny, wind still – beautiful day. Saw first ducklings of the season – heaps of little black fluffy balls with one Mum. 9:11 255528, ready to roll, had showers etc - & cleaned Roxie’s lower half (again!) because she went and played in the mud! Brekkie was muesli. 10:45 in Fairlie. Filling up with diesel (50L, 255603). 13:00 At Peel Forest DOC Camp filling up with water. Cool spot, but full with school camp tents. So off again, through Arundel, on to Mayfield/Methven. 14:09 Stopped for a stretch and smoke and to let dogs have run (couldn’t at Peel Forest) at picnic spot just before Bowler’s Stream – nice spot. Beautifully warm and sunny – although clouds in distance towards north - 21⁰. 14:29 – Methven. 15:10 – walked around Methven – bit of a ghost town at this time of the year, to say the least! All it needed was some tumbleweeds blowing down the main street. Now heading off towards Rakaia Gorge to find a spot for the night. 16:12 – Just walked round Lake Coleridge Powerstation (outside). What a depressing station – built in 1914 and it looks exactly like an old prison. On to Lake Coleridge itself, which is 23km from here, above the powerstation, which is fed by huge long penstocks – well, they’re just long, not big round wise. 17:00 – got to Lake Coleridge (Ryton Bay) – awesome scenery and somewhere new for both of us. Sunny but blowing a bit (again). Been through some beautiful country – would have liked to stay by the Rakaia Gorge, but only an official campsite there, which had no river access (but did have stunning views) and the dogs were allowed, but only on leash. But so cool to discover new country. Have spent a couple of hours investigating this area – lots of old caravans now being used as fishing huts with permanent long drops, wind breaks etc. Reminds us a bit of Poolburn and although it’s cool to have found something new, this place doesn’t inspire us to stay more than 1 night, unlike Benmore, Waitaki etc. Had chicken korma and pilau rice for tea, bed at “normal” time – 22:00.

22 October 2008
Up at “normal” time – 07:30. Overcast, 7⁰, no wind. Have decided to have showers etc and then hit the road and have “brunch” along the way – heading towards Hanmer/Waimakariri Gorge – lovely place. We were going to have brunch here, but first we went to investigate a ladder going up the cliff face and found a duckling – well, Roxie found the duckling – all alone, no sign of Mum (despite it’s distress calls), freezing cold and hungry. Tried to feed it, and it did take some bread. So now we’re travelling towards Rangiora – with a duckling tucked under my puffer (down-filled, must remind it of mum!) jacket. It warmed up really well, and was so comfy and happy to be warm it fell asleep tucked in under my neck. Will now try and find out what sort of a duck it is and decided what to do with it. 12:34 – first vet in Rangiora was happy to take it, and was going to contact the Animal and Bird Hospital – she didn’t know what it was, though. 14:40 – had lunch (bought – delicious wraps, naughty!) and bought a map book and upgraded our AA Membership to Motorhome Plus – they don’t come and rescue you from the middle of nowhere if you don’t have Motorhome Plus! Mike forgot his togs, and seeing as we are heading to Hanmer, thought we’d better buy some – also ended up buying 3 T-shirts! Now trying to find a BP and a dump station on way to Hanmer. 17:36 Parked up at Top 10 Holiday Park. Oh my God – a HOLIDAY PARK!!!!! $30 per night, but happy to have dogs, unlike the sour cow at The Pines – who are supposedly ok with dogs – but only if you book in advance (what’s the bloody difference?). Decided to stay in holiday park because we’re treating ourselves to hot pools tomorrow and this one is close, also close to pub if we feel like it. Also, only place to dump toilet is here, and we might as well do some washing so a holiday park made sense – and there really wasn’t anywhere else close to hot pools to stay. But still, not always going to share a spot with what feels like 100’s of other campervans (only four, in reality). And still can’t quite believe we are at a Holiday Park! Took dogs for walk through Dog Creek Reserve which is a really pretty walk. Raining all afternoon and not very warm either – only 7.8⁰ when we got here. Hoping weather will clear but not looking good. 20:19 – Met Rod and Janine from Melbourne, parked next to us and have had a good old yarn and a laugh – nice people. Had muffins/poached eggs/bacon/hollandaise sauce for tea, bed by 22:00.
PS – we called the duckling Mack – he/she was found at the WaiMAK – hence Mack! And, if we’d been on our way home instead of just starting, we would have kept him (also decided he was a he, not a she!) So bloody cute it was quite a difficult decision for both of us to leave him behind.

23 October 2008
Up at 06:30 and thank heaven we are at a park – the toilet is full to overflowing!! So used their facilities while we have coffee, fed dogs, did a load of washing ($4 to wash and again to dry) and then emptied the loo. Lesson – toilet does 2.5 days!!! 09:54 Cleaned, emptied, watered and fed, now off to hot pools. 12:00 – had lovely relaxing soak and pools, now off to find diesel (very few BP’s around up here) and milk then heading west, where there is supposed to be sun, as here it’s overcast and 15⁰. Weather looks ok on Coast for next couple of days but then on Saturday the whole Island is supposed to have cloud and rain. So we’ll go and hopefully find some sun for a couple of days. 13:20 – stopped for a stretch and smoke at rest area just past the Lewis Pass, before Maruia Springs. 14:03 – stopped at Maruia Springs – taken over by Japs and not doing it for us at all, which is a shame as Mike would have liked to have stopped and had a beer here for old time’s sake. 15:09 – in Reefton, and have just walked to the ruins of an old, old powerhouse from the 1890’s. Got to Westport at 16:20, drove out to the Les Warren Park (which is recommended by the NZMCA) – chokka with campervans – whitebaiting. So decided to drive out to Cape Foulwind, but on way saw place at Carters Beach that looked great – yes, dare I say it – another Top 10 Holiday Park!!! For people who said never, we are doing extremely well – that’s 2 nights in a row, and maybe 3 because we both feel we need a day off from driving. About a 500m walk to beach, but we can hear the surf. Oh, and it’s partly cloudy, but lots of sunny spells and forecast is for it to get better. Mike’s just got back from office and no probs to stay tomorrow and sun’s coming out more and more. It’s after 17:30 and still in T-shirts - 22⁰ in the sun. Took dogs for a quick walk along beach but we’ll do a longer one tomorrow morning because we’ve booked to do a trip with Norwest Adventures to go Underworld Rafting tomorrow at 14:30. OOOOOOOO – how exciting – we are going up the Nile River Valley in a train, then walk through caves, then tube down the Nile – underground! Looking forward to it – something exciting we can do together (apart from mattress dancing, that is!) Oh yes, we joined the Top 10 Holiday Club!!! Never, ever say no again. The main reason – 10% off every time you stay and discount on activities and the discount we are getting for what we are doing tomorrow pays for our membership. Tea: chicken, honey sauce wok creations, fresh veggies and rice. Bed at 21:45.

24 October 2008
Up at 06:45 – relaxing morning so far. Partly cloudy and 9.5⁰ when we got up – about to take dogs for long walk along beach. 12:07 – just back from walking the dogs, 2:15 hours! Got almost to seal colony at Cape Foulwind. Dogs now exhausted, and poor old JD is limping badly (he bruised or twisted his foot chasing a rabbit when we were at Benmore). Have had lunch (ham/cheese/brie/smoked salmon and bread) now into town to get steak for bbq tonight.. Just started to rain – dry all morning but heavy shower now – still 17⁰ though. 13:36 256364kms – at Charleston to go Underworld Rafting. 21:09 – there are not really any words that adequately describe what an awesome trip that was!! And such perfect service! Paid and had briefing, then you get a bag to put all your wetsuit/helmet/paddles gloves/wetsuit socks and booties in, and off down the track to the wee train (Cecil (a wee Morris 1000 engine converted to a train!) when we were here, but Dorothy takes over next week) that takes you to the start of the track, where we got into our wetsuit gear. Then a hike through the rainforest and up 119 steps to the cave entrance. And then the magic starts – it was so awesome! We walked through about 1.2 kms of a cave system that has 8.4 kms of tracks though it. Lots of different stalagmite/tite formations – absolutely amazing. You go down through 3 levels of the cave system to the start of the water, then into your tubes and into the water (cold, especially after walking for ages in a 5mm wetsuit!) for a float through the glowworm caves. Mike and I have seen glowworms before, but nothing like this. They were everywhere, and they didn’t seem to mind a noise. In one place it was like the Milky Way – the whole sky was alive with the twinkle of stars! Then you get to the pool at the exit, and into the Nile river for a tube ride back to where we started. River a bit low, so we were told to keep up bums well clear of the bottom of the tube, unless we wanted a bum slapping, that is! Got “temporarily) stuck in a couple of places, but great fun nonetheless. Back to base at 18:00, had a drink and a whitebait sammie at the pub and checked out the photo’s. Left Charleston at 19:00, back to Carter’s Beach. Fed dogs, had a drink then Marielle tried out the showers – not as good as Hanmer by a long shot. In fact, the shower on board Maggie is better, and that’s where Mike had a shower. Just had bbq steak and mushies for tea – YUM. Much needed after the day’s physical activities. Late night, bed at 23:00.

25 October 2008
Up at 07:15, normal morning routine and now just dumping grey and then on way south. 9:07 – rolling. 11:41 – just walked around Punakaiki in very cold, wet weather, but worth it all the same. Missed high tide which was at 09:00 but due to stiff SW wind and big seas we saw the blowholes working! Yiha! 16:30 – on the road again, after spending the last 2.5 hours at Shantytown, which was cool, although we thought a bit overpriced at $25 each. 17:03 – Hokitika, filling up (62.3L, 256565 kms). Very strong headwind from Shantytown to here – hard to the floor and only managed 90km/hour on the flat, let alone any uphills! 17:39 – got to Lake Mahinapua, DOC Reserve – very nice spot. It is blowing so hard with an onshore wind that we needed to get away from the Coast and this place is nicely sheltered by heaps of bush. Met Brian (Pom) and Dorothea (Austrian) and had a drink with them on Maggie, then had WHITEBAIT patties and fresh asparagus for tea YUM, YUM, YUM, bed at 22:30.

26 October 2008
Up at 07:45!!, beautiful sunny day, still windy but now from 180⁰ opposite direction. Quite mild though – 9.5⁰ when we got up. Now 10:20, filling with water. Had bacon/eggs/mushies/hashbrowns for brekkie. 12:00 – been for a walk around Ross and round the Water Race Walkway – beautiful spot and boy have they put a lot of effort into the town and walkways – and all for free. As good as Shantytown, if not better. And Ross has quite a few places where we could park overnight, for future reference. Beautiful weather – warm enough for just a T-shirt. 14:52 – had lunch at the Whataroa River, upstream from the road bridge. Lovely spot with fantastic views up the valley, and a beautiful clear SI River. There’s what appears to be an abandoned tourist spot (bush bbq, billy tea, jungle paintball and heli flights) here - we found out later only gets used at Christmas time. Almost decided to stay but then remembered the other thing we needed to buy, besides eggs and lemon juice for more whitebait patties – BEER!! So on to find the nearest outlet that stocks Speights. 15:43 – checked out Okarito Lagoon – nice wee campground and great beach. 17:00 – just had a beer at The Landing (Speight’s Alehouse) in Franz Josef, cool. Marielle had her first ever Summit – delicious afternoon beer! Onwards south now to find spot for the night – probably somewhere around Fox Glacier. No, not Fox – found place approx. 3kms south of Franz, just across Docherty Creek. Started up the gennie at 19:00 to charge some things – and absolutely NO SMOKE – first time ever. We are both gobsmacked – no matter what load, smart throttle on or off – no smoke! Go figure. Whitebait and asparagus for tea again tonight – YUM, YUM, YUM again! One thing – we probably carry too much food on trips like this, seeing as we keep buying fresh stuff, whatever takes our fancy, Haven’t touched the frozen veggies, still have cauliflower and broccoli left, let alone the fruit or tinned stuff. Another awesome day ended after we’d watched the sun set on Mt Cook – the clouds kindly cleared in time to watch the side of the mountain turn pink. We went to bed at 21:45.

27 October 2008
Up at 7:10 – overcast, 7⁰ and occasionally trying to spit. Off further south today. 9:14 on the road. 10:12 Just had the most wonderful breakfast at Café Matheson – well worth the money, just beautiful and the coffee was delicious. Checked out Clearwater Stream as future spot to part – stunning views and good place, but quite exposed so no good if it’s blowing too hard. Filled up with diesel at Fox (256777kms, 27.9L). 11:26 – just walked up to the terminal face of the Glacier – definitely changed since we were last here in 1996. 12:23 Went down the road just before Jacobs River, signposted Hunts Beach (why? – ‘cause we can and we’d never been there before!) and talked to some people whitebaiting and watched bait going into their net. 12:53 – Lake Paringa – stop for smoke and stretch and let dogs run. 15:43 – parked up on Haast Beach – one turn-off earlier than our “old” spot because that was already occupied – not that we mind, ‘cause this one’s actually better. We stopped in Haast for water and to get some beer at the Heritage – what a rip off, $42 for a 24 pack!! Also had a couple of beers there before finding this spot. 20:08 – have spent all afternoon sitting on the beach – cloudy to start with and then the sun came out and it was just gorgeous. And we both agree the trip was really great, but Haast Beach is our favourite spot!!! Just worked out that so far we’ve driven 1686 kms, only to decide our best spot is only 3 hours from home! We’ve just spent 5 hours sitting on the beach (Mike built a fire – of course!) and we also put the dogs on Maggie (mainly because JD is terrified of guns!) and fired the shotgun at a target Mike had made – we both fired of 4 shots and thought we’d missed as the target never moved – turns out we were using quail shot and we peppered it, just couldn’t see it happening. Had tea (pork/chinese bbq sauce/frozen veggies/rice) and hit pit at 21:48.


28 October 2008
Up at 7:20 – overcast and very humid and because of the humidity it feels a lot warmer than 9⁰. It rained hard overnight, and looks threatening to do it again, so we’ve decided to head home – were going to walk the dogs, but with rain coming again decided to hit the road. We’ve had a really, really enjoyed our trip, but now that we are this close to home we are looking forward to getting back. 8:21 rolling. 9:40 – stopped for smoke at Boundary Creek. 11:12 – HOME! 257142kms – so that’s 1,907 kms since leaving.