Te Anau, 20 to 23 December 2008

This page is dedicated to our dear friend and mentor

Silver (1937 - 2008).

20 December 2008

13:15 (258205kms): on our way to Te Anau, for Silver's funeral. So this is going to be a short blog, as it's a very sad occasion and it's not your normal Maggie adventure. But thanks to Maggie, we have a place to stay and can take the dogs with us, so she makes it so much easier. Absolutely pouring and a miserable 8 degrees. Stopped in Cromwell and filled up with diesel (62L, 258229kms). Also stopped in Frankton to see if they have any car seat covers at The Warehouse (none in stock) and to let the dogs have a run. Arrived Te Anau 16:49 and met Chris at Simon's, on whose driveway we are parking for the night (thanks Simon!!!!). After a beer, we headed off to the Ranch to meet up with the rest of the Sinclair family - really sad, but really cool at the same time. Got home at 23:15.

21 December 2008

Marielle up at 07:15 to take dogs for a walk - Mike finally up at just after 09:00 (which is hardly surprising given that it was a big night after finishing night shift yesterday!). Had breakfast inside at Simon's and went round to help clean house and gardens at Silver and Jess's place. Then we left the family to it and went and parked up at Queen's Reach for the night - in the spot we found last time but which was occupied - absolutely beautiful. Had a fish, but mainly sat and reminisced and talked. Met a couple who were jetboating and fishing, and then a couple of fishermen from Dunedin - meant a late-ish tea and we didn't hit the pit until 23:00.

22 December 2008

Up at 06:30, had showers and chilled for a bit and just as we were getting ready to leave Kirsty rung to say she was already in Te Anau. Met her and had breakfast at The Sandfly cafe, then got ready to go to the funeral. Very tough afternoon, followed by a mixture of happiness and sadness at The Ranch. Marielle got home just before 23:00 - Kirsty followed sometime later (she doesn't remember much!) and Mike stumbled in at 02:30.

23 December 2008

Left Te Anau 12:26 (258482kms). Arrived home 16:40.

Queenstown, 5 to 8 December 2008

5 December 2008
09:30, 257935kms. Weather glorious – off to somewhere to get to Queenstown by tomorrow afternoon for the Contact Energy Christmas do. 10:58 – stopped in Cromwell to try and buy a ski mirror (none to be found!), to get the new registration label for Maggie (didn’t arrive in time) and to have breakfast along the lake shore. Nice and warm but the wind is picking up (bloody wind!!). 13:12 – stopped at Remarkables Park Shopping Centre at Frankton to get more Inca Gold (toilet chemicals) and treated ourselves to lunch at Thaitanium YUM, YUM, YUM!! 15:03 – been to Repco to buy a couple of bits and pieces and then to Hansen’s Auto Services, who are the Mercedes specialists, to see if they can shed some light on our engine rattle. Spent over an hour there, have to be back Monday as the fan belt that has just been replaced is the wrong size (4mm too long) and 2 idler pulleys are too loose and need to be replaced. But no-one is sure if this will actually fix the rattle! Also found out that the alternator doesn’t rotate in both directions, which it’s meant to. 15:39 Set up at 12 Mile Delta, beside Lake Wakatipu, along the road to Glenorchy and about 10kms from Queenstown. Beautiful spot with awesome views but windy – cold wind!- and sandflies!!!! Reasonably sheltered though, and alternating sun/cloud. Watched lots of other people come and go, in particular one pair of clowns who parked their camper on such an angle we worried they might come out through the front of the Luton during the night! How they slept at all is beyond us. Also met Tim and Rachel, from Cambridge, UK, who are on their OE and pitched their tent beside us. Invited them in for a beer, and then dinner. We were having spaghetti and Mike’s famous meat balls, and they had some mince too so offered to contribute that. Well, we didn’t use it and our good deed for the day was saving them from food-poisoning, as their mince was off!! Realised when we’d finished tea that it was 23:30! So they left, we did dishes and hit the pit at 00:09! Housekeeping: we seem to be having a few problems with the house battery - nothing major - but it keeps dropping to low battery warning quite quickly - we haven't had this before. Also only shows 75% charged, even after driving to Queenstown. Whether this has something to do with alternator, or the battery, we don't know.

6 December 2008
Awake at 07:45, glorious day after cooler night – 9 degrees when we got up. Not a cloud in the sky, but wind threatening – again! Plan is to take dogs for long walk, make our way to Coronet Plaza at Arthur’s Point and have shower etc in our hotel room before going to the do. 12:02 258046kms. Leaving 12 Mile Delta after walking dogs around the Delta. Crossed a wee stream at the start, Mike got across safe and dry, Marielle over-balanced and got her feet, socks, shoes and jeans rather wet – thank god it’s a nice day! We’ve had a full cooked breakfast, and helped Tim and Rachel again, by letting them use our cell-phone to call the AA as their car won’t go after the alarm went off. Got to Coronet Plaza about 13:15, had showers (crap!) and got ready for the bowling, which lasted from 15:30 ‘til 17:30. Fed and watered dogs (had taken them for a few “out of Maggie” breaks all afternoon), then off to dinner. Marielle put dogs to bed on Maggie at 22:39 and then went to bed herself, in the hotel room – so even though we weren’t sleeping on Maggie, she was still being used! Mike followed sometime after midnight. We had a good night!

7 December 2008
Up at 7:30 – well, Marielle was, Mike emerged for a coffee and smoke about 08:00 then went back to bed! Left the hotel about 9:30, had breakfast at Brazzas, then out to Frankton to see Kirsty, who was also in QT last night for her works’ Xmas do. Then off to 12 Mile Delta again. Got there at 12:31 and had relaxing afternoon – enjoying some lovely weather, fishing, reading etc. Both a bit tired after late nights/early mornings, and after we’d had a few drinks and dinner (Thai green curry) we were both ready for bed – at 20:30!!!

8 December 2008
Good night’s sleep, apart from the fact that Mike woke up at 01:00 and couldn’t get back to sleep because he’d gone to bed too early!! Up at 07:00, 9⁰C, raining and getting heavier, but no worries this time as we know we can get out of here! Had breakfast (muesli and yoghurt) and left at 8:28 to go into Queenstown to have the fanbelt etc fixed. Got to Hansen Auto Services at 9:28 and then sat reading our books while the bits and pieces were replaced. Yay – the rattle has gone! And the house battery has charged to full again. Still raining so we are not unhappy about going home. Got home at 13:06 (258204kms) after stopping in Cromwell to do some shopping. Still raining!

Kane Road, Hawea 2 to 4 December 2008

2 December 2008
11:43, 257779kms. Off to Kane Road, between Luggate and Hawea Flat, to park beside the Clutha River. It’s an area Mike heard about from the guys at work, land owned by Contact Energy – so no hassles with land owners or anything. Weather forecast for odd shower this afternoon, maybe thunder, but we’re off! Filled diesel (42.93L, 257804kms) and gas at BP Cromwell, did shopping at New World and called in to say hi to Kirsty. The odd quite heavy shower coming through, but also blue sky in distance – fingers crossed! 12:55 Leaving Cromwell. 15:03 – parked up where we’d planned, but it took a lot of effort to get here – the tomahawk was put to good use scrub clearing to make track wide enough for Maggie – and still we scratched the side of her quite badly! Mike buggered, a little tomahawk on some fairly decent pine tree branches took a bit of energy! Set up camp and spent rest of afternoon relaxing, although Mike did continue with the tomahawk (must have got the lumberjack bug) as he proceeded to cut down a small poplar and a big willowtree branch that were stopping the sun from getting through! Mad!!! Had tea (mini chicken roast, broccoli and special fried rice) and then did the dishes – as we always do – and then wondered what the awful, awful smell was. Poor old JD got blamed for letting one rip, but it was worse than that. Then it dawned – we hadn’t emptied the grey tank from last trip ‘til this morning, and it did smell a bit when we emptied it. But, as soon as I pulled the plug from the sink, the smell from the tank came up through the shower plug hole – and boy did it pong – honestly smelt like something had died. So dissolved a bio-pak toilet chemical sachet in sink and let it go into grey. Lesson for future - empty the grey on the last day!! Both tired – Mike knackered – and in bed at 21:00. Oh, we had one heavy shower just after we set up camp, and thought “here we go!” but it only lasted about 10 minutes, sun came out again and beautiful afternoon, apart from stiff NW wind.

3 December 2008
Up at 07:00 – sunny out, 13⁰ but still blowing. Oh yeah, we gave up on worming – only thing we caught was heaps of didymo. Very deceptive, as unlike other places there is no sign of it on surface, but obviously in the depths it’s there – in bucket loads! Yuck. Now 08:50, have had breakfast (muesli and yoghurt) and now contemplating what to do for rest of morning – fish, read, go back to bed??? Oh, life’s tough! 13:03 – Have pretty much done all of the above, now moving to another spot a bit further upstream because the fishing is no good here, and because the forecast is for showers tonight and we want to get past the boghole before that happens. And a change of scenery never goes amiss! 13:21 – parked up in new spot, after doing some more scrub cutting to get here. Nice and sunny, and sheltered from the ever present howling NW. Mike reading, Marielle went for a fish and caught a big one – for about 2 seconds – it literally jumped 3 feet out of the water the moment it struck, and jumped straight off the hook! Met another fisherman, who had seen Maggie parked up and thought we were mad, bringing a campervan down this track! Mike also had a fish, and same thing happened to him – caught one minute, off the next! Spent rest of afternoon reading and fishing, and eating way too many chips – so many, neither of us felt like tea! Had a few drinks, and obviously a few too many, because Mike turned the motor on to charge up the batteries, and also turned the heating on - to the point where it got all of a sudden got awfully hot inside, and Marielle felt very unwell and went to bed before it even remotely got dark!

4 December 2008
Marielle awake before sunrise, thanks to it starting to rain. Then woke up several more times as the rain got progressively heavier and heavier, and at 6am woke Mike up because it was really pee-ing down to the point where we thought we should move to higher, and harder ground. A couple of wee slips getting up the track, and almost got stuck in a boghole because Marielle sent Mike the wrong way (OOPS!) but Maggie got us out safely. Left camp at 6:31, home just after 7:30. Still raining heavily and when we turned on the TV we discovered there are heavy rain warnings out – so much for the weather forecasts on Classic Hits – they told us yesterday there would be a few showers! So glad we left. Will wait to see what happens with weather during rest of today before we decide what we are going to do – stay at home for the day and try again tomorrow, or maybe move somewhere tonight?

2nd Galloway, 25 to 27 November 2008

25 November 2008
Weather not good at the moment, but meant to be improving, so we have decided to go and park along the Manuherikia River at Galloway somewhere, for a couple of R&R nights. We were going to leave much earlier, but then it started to pour, so waited until it actually looked like it was clearing, rather than relying on the weather forecast, so didn't leave home until 14:11. Start odometer was 257678 - the kilometres since last trip and this one have been running into Alexandra and back a couple of times, as the engine seems to have a wee knock on idle, and Maggie has been at the "doctor" for the last week and a bit while they try and figure out what the problem is. Anyway, checked out 1st Galloway, but decided before we parked in our "usual" spot that we would check out 2nd Galloway - and we are so glad we did! As Mike said, we are only 20 minutes from home, but we could be in Mid-Canterbury, or other places far away. It is really pretty here, and we are within sight and sound of the River - why drive hours and hours when we have this on our back door step? And, after all, people come from all over to camp here during the holidays! We did have to go back into Alexandra, because Marielle decided to try a spot of fly-fishing and went to tie her fly on - only to realise she'd run out of tippet! Just as well we were close to town!
Got back from that at 15:50, and seeing as the weather wasn't good enough to sit outside, we played Canasta until tea time (pork chops, stir-fry veggie and rice). Hit the pit at 22:05.

26 November 2008
Up just before 08:00 - slightly cool breeze but getting sunnier all the time. Spent the day fishing (Marielle caught 2 fish - chocolate size!), eating, reading, walking the dogs and just generally relaxing. Wonderful. Oh, the dogs did also contribute to the hunter-gathering: 1 baby quail (JD, still alive after being told to leave it), 1 baby rabbit (was still alive when Roxie bought it to us - but she was in the river when told to drop it, which she did - so the baby rabbit drowned!) and 1 baby oyster catcher (Roxie, still alive after she was told to leave it). Had butter chicken with stir-fry veggies and rice for tea, bed at 21:55.

27 November 2008
Up at 06:30 - going to be a beautiful day once the cloud burns off. Fishing (another 2 chocolate fish - though one a bit bigger!), reading, nana-napping and more fishing. Had to pack up and go home though, as Mike has to work for a living somewhere along the line. Bit of a shame as it has turned out to be a beautiful day, lovely and warm and not a cloud to be seen. Oh well! Left at 14:08, home at 14:34, and Maggie all unpacked and washing on the go etc. by 15:00. Oh, couple of house-keeping things - still not totally happy with the generator. It does its job all right, but it uses so much oil, it is honestly like a 2 stroke. Definitely going to put in either diesel or LPG heating - not quite sure yet because diesel is more expensive by about $1,000 to install (but said to be "hotter" than LPG) but also more difficult to install - either need to plug into the fuel tank, or as we have seen, get another smaller (20L) diesel tank installed. LPG is simpler to install, supposed to run through a heat exchanger so no condensation and cheaper to install, but we want to get it right so maybe diesel might end up being the better option. And the other house-keeping thing - the new blind into the bedroom works a treat!

MacKenzie Country (again!), 2 to 6 November 2008

2 November 2008
11:41 257191 kms. Off over the hill, Lake Benmore/Ohau C somewhere, via stop in Cromwell for gas/diesel/ice and shopping. Put 63L in tank (257216). Oh, have a couple of new gadgets on board this trip – a 400W inverter and a car mp3/fm transmitter thing. 14:05 Omarama (stopped at Lions and Lindis to let slow traffic go!) 14:30 Stopped at Nev and Wendy’s, now on to Twizel to get water, then park up. 15:20 Parked up below Ohau C, further along to end of point than where we were last time, ‘cause that place is chokka. Beautiful afternoon – 28⁰ in the sun, stripped off and sat and enjoyed the first proper day of spring. Now 18:40, and still 30⁰ in the sun, thoroughly enjoying the good weather! Spent all afternoon just sitting in the sun, enjoying the views and listening to the music on our new gadget! 20:30 Still 18⁰ out!! YAY a taste of summer at last! Had meatballs/spaghetti and asparagus for tea and hit the pit at 21:45.

3 November 2008
Up at 06:30 – sunny, no wind, not a cloud to be seen. Had coffee and went for a fish. Now 09:25 and Mike’s about to cook breakfast. Temp when we got up 4.5⁰, now 13.5⁰. Fished, read, slept, walked dogs – a very relaxing day. Chicken/honey soy Wok Creations sauce/rice and fresh stir fry veggies for tea. Bed by 21:45.

4 November 2008
Up at 7:15, Marielle went for a fish while Mike relaxed. Now 10:31 and off to Twizel to empty and re-stock. Bit wobbly, to say the least, getting out of where we were parked – so wobbly, poor old JD fell off the seat – and he’s now not impressed! After chores we went and checked out Ruataniwha, had a fish below Ohau A but caught only didymo, drove to Lake Ohau (the other end to last time we were here – blowing) and checked out any future other campsites, none really here. Then went back to main highway, down Ohau Riverside Drive to check out the other side – after what seemed like ages on a pretty poor road, driving a fair way down to try and find a sheltered spot, we turned around and found a really nice spot half way back. The weather forecast is awful – heavy snow warning in place for Otago, Southland and Canterbury. The NW gales that were forecast never eventuated, but it’s been occasionally spitting since we got here at 15:25 and the wind has now turned South, with corresponding temperature drop. We are using the gennie for the first time on this trip! Quiet night in (ha ha!) and planning to have stir-fry beef/Chinese bbq sauce with first capsicum of season (cheap at 4 Square in Twizel) and rice. YUM. Ended up not having beef – neither of us could really be bothered cooking. Had Alfredo pasta with fresh asparagus/ham and capsicum thrown in and it was delicious. Had several attempts at trying to catch a nice looking fish that’s cruising the wee inlet beside us, no luck. Also spent a bit of time “storm” proofing – making house for gennie, trying to get the umbrella to stand up in very rocky ground, all in preparation for the bad weather that is already meant to be here, but no sign of it yet. Bed at 22:10.

5 November 2008
06:30 – the bad weather has arrived, with a vengeance. They said it would, but it was forecast to hit about 12 hours ago. Only 0.5⁰ outside, and snowing – lightly when we got up, but getting heavier all the time!!!! We’ve had to start the gennie up, just to try and get some heat in the place. 2 days ago in singlet and shorts, now in winter woollies! Going to be a very quiet day in by the looks of things –although if it keeps snowing we’ll be able to build a snow-man. Well, it carried on snowing very heavily until about 09:30, when the sun came out for a few hours. Had bitterly cold winds all day, snow showers, hail, sleet – all interspersed with sun and little wind. In these pleasant intervals we fished – Mike had 6 follows and one catch, Marielle one follow. Played euchre and monopoly when it got too cold to be out. Temp today ranged from 10.7 when sun was out, to 2.4 when a squall went through. Fun, this camping thing, according to Mike! Bed at 22:10 after tea of beef/chinese bbq sauce and veggies.

6 November 2008
Up at 7:11 – 1.2⁰ out, but sunny. Still cold wind, but ok. Mike caught another fish, Marielle’s been trying to get the one in the wee channel to the right of us on the fly – no luck! Off to do shopping/chores in Twizel then find somewhere else to park up. 12:12, rolling to Twizel. 13:28 – off to Lake Ruataniwha) just checked out the Rowing Facility – huge – and now rolling. Got home at 17:47, after a stop at the Lindis Mouth on the Clutha (nice!). Decided we’d go home because even though it is slightly warmer, there is still a stiff southerly and we’re over cold and wind and snow. 257630 kms – 439 kms this trip. Oh, and we’ve decided to permanently mount the electric toothbrush in the power cupboard, and mount the dustbuster on the wall, so that we can charge them while we are travelling – 2 reasons: 1) no point in using the battery to charge stuff when it can be done off the motor; 2) the inverter is a bit noisy, so if you charge whilst travelling you don’t notice it. And we’ve also decided to get rid of the curtains in the bedroom – we only ever use them when we’re cooking to stop smells going up there, and the curtains are a right pain – Mike gets caught up in them when we’re asleep, and they are hugely in the way when making the bed. So they will be replaced with a blind that we can easily close from the house side.

The Big Trip North, 19 to 28 October 2008

19 October 2008
14:05 – on the road again (255235 kms) and off on our first planned big trip. Planned as in the time off is planned and we are heading north – that’s it. Don’t plan too much otherwise you miss out on being able to stop where you fancy, and miss out on all sorts. Beautiful day – not a cloud in the sky, but not super warm yet, only 20⁰. Stop in Cromwell: shopping, gas, diesel and say hi to Kirsty. Then heading north! 16:04 – parked in beautiful spot beside Lake Dunstan, opposite Bendigo Station, called Rocky Point – decided we wouldn’t drive too far today! 19:24 – have had a lovely afternoon – nice weather and we rang Kirsty and said to come and join us for a drink, so we’ve had a great old day. Poor old Kirsty though, had to get into the water to wash Benny after he’d somehow got covered in fish oil. Kirsty left at 18:30, had a few more drinks, tea (chicken with apricot/cream cheese on ciabatta and Caesar salad). Oh – we listened to the Dixie Chicks on DVD on our brand new laptop – Mike in techonological (spelt that way on purpose!) heaven. Bed at 22:00.

20 October 2008
Up at 07:50 after a very warm but blustery night. 09:00 on the road, after brekkie of toasted muffins. 11:48 – stopped at High Country Salmon for some smoked salmon for trip, and Twizel to buy a telescopic fishing rod for Marielle. Now heading north – and to find somewhere for lunch. 13:09 – had lunch same as last night’s tea – at awesome picnic/camp spot on right just before Mt Cook turn off. Lots of little tuck in spots, big pond – really pretty. 14:10 – heading down Haldom Road towards Lake Benmore (after Lake Tekapo, turn off at Dog Kennel Corner). Chris had told Mike about this, so decided to go and check it out. Overcast, blowing (pedal to the metal between Pukaki and Tekapo and only doing 90km) and 15.6⁰. 50kms later, we are just about at Ohau C – once again!!!! Maggie’s magic has taken us right back to where we started – in sight of a powerstation!! Talk about going in circles at times – but at least here the scenery is better than the Maniototo. 16:00 – all parked up, past Haldom Camp (too civilised for us!) on opposite bank of river to last week along the banks of Lake Benmore. And joy – Roxie has rediscovered the pleasure of chasing (and sometimes catching) skinks, so that’s now 2 nights in a row we haven’t had to entertain her by throwing rocks. Did have to bath her (in a blowing wind and not that warm, and I had to get in the water with her!) because Roxie decided she’d copy Benny and roll in something yuck!! Had spaghetti and Mike’s meatballs for tea, watched/listened to Fleetwood Mac, bed at 21:45.

21 October 2008
Up at 07:36, 1.3⁰, sunny, wind still – beautiful day. Saw first ducklings of the season – heaps of little black fluffy balls with one Mum. 9:11 255528, ready to roll, had showers etc - & cleaned Roxie’s lower half (again!) because she went and played in the mud! Brekkie was muesli. 10:45 in Fairlie. Filling up with diesel (50L, 255603). 13:00 At Peel Forest DOC Camp filling up with water. Cool spot, but full with school camp tents. So off again, through Arundel, on to Mayfield/Methven. 14:09 Stopped for a stretch and smoke and to let dogs have run (couldn’t at Peel Forest) at picnic spot just before Bowler’s Stream – nice spot. Beautifully warm and sunny – although clouds in distance towards north - 21⁰. 14:29 – Methven. 15:10 – walked around Methven – bit of a ghost town at this time of the year, to say the least! All it needed was some tumbleweeds blowing down the main street. Now heading off towards Rakaia Gorge to find a spot for the night. 16:12 – Just walked round Lake Coleridge Powerstation (outside). What a depressing station – built in 1914 and it looks exactly like an old prison. On to Lake Coleridge itself, which is 23km from here, above the powerstation, which is fed by huge long penstocks – well, they’re just long, not big round wise. 17:00 – got to Lake Coleridge (Ryton Bay) – awesome scenery and somewhere new for both of us. Sunny but blowing a bit (again). Been through some beautiful country – would have liked to stay by the Rakaia Gorge, but only an official campsite there, which had no river access (but did have stunning views) and the dogs were allowed, but only on leash. But so cool to discover new country. Have spent a couple of hours investigating this area – lots of old caravans now being used as fishing huts with permanent long drops, wind breaks etc. Reminds us a bit of Poolburn and although it’s cool to have found something new, this place doesn’t inspire us to stay more than 1 night, unlike Benmore, Waitaki etc. Had chicken korma and pilau rice for tea, bed at “normal” time – 22:00.

22 October 2008
Up at “normal” time – 07:30. Overcast, 7⁰, no wind. Have decided to have showers etc and then hit the road and have “brunch” along the way – heading towards Hanmer/Waimakariri Gorge – lovely place. We were going to have brunch here, but first we went to investigate a ladder going up the cliff face and found a duckling – well, Roxie found the duckling – all alone, no sign of Mum (despite it’s distress calls), freezing cold and hungry. Tried to feed it, and it did take some bread. So now we’re travelling towards Rangiora – with a duckling tucked under my puffer (down-filled, must remind it of mum!) jacket. It warmed up really well, and was so comfy and happy to be warm it fell asleep tucked in under my neck. Will now try and find out what sort of a duck it is and decided what to do with it. 12:34 – first vet in Rangiora was happy to take it, and was going to contact the Animal and Bird Hospital – she didn’t know what it was, though. 14:40 – had lunch (bought – delicious wraps, naughty!) and bought a map book and upgraded our AA Membership to Motorhome Plus – they don’t come and rescue you from the middle of nowhere if you don’t have Motorhome Plus! Mike forgot his togs, and seeing as we are heading to Hanmer, thought we’d better buy some – also ended up buying 3 T-shirts! Now trying to find a BP and a dump station on way to Hanmer. 17:36 Parked up at Top 10 Holiday Park. Oh my God – a HOLIDAY PARK!!!!! $30 per night, but happy to have dogs, unlike the sour cow at The Pines – who are supposedly ok with dogs – but only if you book in advance (what’s the bloody difference?). Decided to stay in holiday park because we’re treating ourselves to hot pools tomorrow and this one is close, also close to pub if we feel like it. Also, only place to dump toilet is here, and we might as well do some washing so a holiday park made sense – and there really wasn’t anywhere else close to hot pools to stay. But still, not always going to share a spot with what feels like 100’s of other campervans (only four, in reality). And still can’t quite believe we are at a Holiday Park! Took dogs for walk through Dog Creek Reserve which is a really pretty walk. Raining all afternoon and not very warm either – only 7.8⁰ when we got here. Hoping weather will clear but not looking good. 20:19 – Met Rod and Janine from Melbourne, parked next to us and have had a good old yarn and a laugh – nice people. Had muffins/poached eggs/bacon/hollandaise sauce for tea, bed by 22:00.
PS – we called the duckling Mack – he/she was found at the WaiMAK – hence Mack! And, if we’d been on our way home instead of just starting, we would have kept him (also decided he was a he, not a she!) So bloody cute it was quite a difficult decision for both of us to leave him behind.

23 October 2008
Up at 06:30 and thank heaven we are at a park – the toilet is full to overflowing!! So used their facilities while we have coffee, fed dogs, did a load of washing ($4 to wash and again to dry) and then emptied the loo. Lesson – toilet does 2.5 days!!! 09:54 Cleaned, emptied, watered and fed, now off to hot pools. 12:00 – had lovely relaxing soak and pools, now off to find diesel (very few BP’s around up here) and milk then heading west, where there is supposed to be sun, as here it’s overcast and 15⁰. Weather looks ok on Coast for next couple of days but then on Saturday the whole Island is supposed to have cloud and rain. So we’ll go and hopefully find some sun for a couple of days. 13:20 – stopped for a stretch and smoke at rest area just past the Lewis Pass, before Maruia Springs. 14:03 – stopped at Maruia Springs – taken over by Japs and not doing it for us at all, which is a shame as Mike would have liked to have stopped and had a beer here for old time’s sake. 15:09 – in Reefton, and have just walked to the ruins of an old, old powerhouse from the 1890’s. Got to Westport at 16:20, drove out to the Les Warren Park (which is recommended by the NZMCA) – chokka with campervans – whitebaiting. So decided to drive out to Cape Foulwind, but on way saw place at Carters Beach that looked great – yes, dare I say it – another Top 10 Holiday Park!!! For people who said never, we are doing extremely well – that’s 2 nights in a row, and maybe 3 because we both feel we need a day off from driving. About a 500m walk to beach, but we can hear the surf. Oh, and it’s partly cloudy, but lots of sunny spells and forecast is for it to get better. Mike’s just got back from office and no probs to stay tomorrow and sun’s coming out more and more. It’s after 17:30 and still in T-shirts - 22⁰ in the sun. Took dogs for a quick walk along beach but we’ll do a longer one tomorrow morning because we’ve booked to do a trip with Norwest Adventures to go Underworld Rafting tomorrow at 14:30. OOOOOOOO – how exciting – we are going up the Nile River Valley in a train, then walk through caves, then tube down the Nile – underground! Looking forward to it – something exciting we can do together (apart from mattress dancing, that is!) Oh yes, we joined the Top 10 Holiday Club!!! Never, ever say no again. The main reason – 10% off every time you stay and discount on activities and the discount we are getting for what we are doing tomorrow pays for our membership. Tea: chicken, honey sauce wok creations, fresh veggies and rice. Bed at 21:45.

24 October 2008
Up at 06:45 – relaxing morning so far. Partly cloudy and 9.5⁰ when we got up – about to take dogs for long walk along beach. 12:07 – just back from walking the dogs, 2:15 hours! Got almost to seal colony at Cape Foulwind. Dogs now exhausted, and poor old JD is limping badly (he bruised or twisted his foot chasing a rabbit when we were at Benmore). Have had lunch (ham/cheese/brie/smoked salmon and bread) now into town to get steak for bbq tonight.. Just started to rain – dry all morning but heavy shower now – still 17⁰ though. 13:36 256364kms – at Charleston to go Underworld Rafting. 21:09 – there are not really any words that adequately describe what an awesome trip that was!! And such perfect service! Paid and had briefing, then you get a bag to put all your wetsuit/helmet/paddles gloves/wetsuit socks and booties in, and off down the track to the wee train (Cecil (a wee Morris 1000 engine converted to a train!) when we were here, but Dorothy takes over next week) that takes you to the start of the track, where we got into our wetsuit gear. Then a hike through the rainforest and up 119 steps to the cave entrance. And then the magic starts – it was so awesome! We walked through about 1.2 kms of a cave system that has 8.4 kms of tracks though it. Lots of different stalagmite/tite formations – absolutely amazing. You go down through 3 levels of the cave system to the start of the water, then into your tubes and into the water (cold, especially after walking for ages in a 5mm wetsuit!) for a float through the glowworm caves. Mike and I have seen glowworms before, but nothing like this. They were everywhere, and they didn’t seem to mind a noise. In one place it was like the Milky Way – the whole sky was alive with the twinkle of stars! Then you get to the pool at the exit, and into the Nile river for a tube ride back to where we started. River a bit low, so we were told to keep up bums well clear of the bottom of the tube, unless we wanted a bum slapping, that is! Got “temporarily) stuck in a couple of places, but great fun nonetheless. Back to base at 18:00, had a drink and a whitebait sammie at the pub and checked out the photo’s. Left Charleston at 19:00, back to Carter’s Beach. Fed dogs, had a drink then Marielle tried out the showers – not as good as Hanmer by a long shot. In fact, the shower on board Maggie is better, and that’s where Mike had a shower. Just had bbq steak and mushies for tea – YUM. Much needed after the day’s physical activities. Late night, bed at 23:00.

25 October 2008
Up at 07:15, normal morning routine and now just dumping grey and then on way south. 9:07 – rolling. 11:41 – just walked around Punakaiki in very cold, wet weather, but worth it all the same. Missed high tide which was at 09:00 but due to stiff SW wind and big seas we saw the blowholes working! Yiha! 16:30 – on the road again, after spending the last 2.5 hours at Shantytown, which was cool, although we thought a bit overpriced at $25 each. 17:03 – Hokitika, filling up (62.3L, 256565 kms). Very strong headwind from Shantytown to here – hard to the floor and only managed 90km/hour on the flat, let alone any uphills! 17:39 – got to Lake Mahinapua, DOC Reserve – very nice spot. It is blowing so hard with an onshore wind that we needed to get away from the Coast and this place is nicely sheltered by heaps of bush. Met Brian (Pom) and Dorothea (Austrian) and had a drink with them on Maggie, then had WHITEBAIT patties and fresh asparagus for tea YUM, YUM, YUM, bed at 22:30.

26 October 2008
Up at 07:45!!, beautiful sunny day, still windy but now from 180⁰ opposite direction. Quite mild though – 9.5⁰ when we got up. Now 10:20, filling with water. Had bacon/eggs/mushies/hashbrowns for brekkie. 12:00 – been for a walk around Ross and round the Water Race Walkway – beautiful spot and boy have they put a lot of effort into the town and walkways – and all for free. As good as Shantytown, if not better. And Ross has quite a few places where we could park overnight, for future reference. Beautiful weather – warm enough for just a T-shirt. 14:52 – had lunch at the Whataroa River, upstream from the road bridge. Lovely spot with fantastic views up the valley, and a beautiful clear SI River. There’s what appears to be an abandoned tourist spot (bush bbq, billy tea, jungle paintball and heli flights) here - we found out later only gets used at Christmas time. Almost decided to stay but then remembered the other thing we needed to buy, besides eggs and lemon juice for more whitebait patties – BEER!! So on to find the nearest outlet that stocks Speights. 15:43 – checked out Okarito Lagoon – nice wee campground and great beach. 17:00 – just had a beer at The Landing (Speight’s Alehouse) in Franz Josef, cool. Marielle had her first ever Summit – delicious afternoon beer! Onwards south now to find spot for the night – probably somewhere around Fox Glacier. No, not Fox – found place approx. 3kms south of Franz, just across Docherty Creek. Started up the gennie at 19:00 to charge some things – and absolutely NO SMOKE – first time ever. We are both gobsmacked – no matter what load, smart throttle on or off – no smoke! Go figure. Whitebait and asparagus for tea again tonight – YUM, YUM, YUM again! One thing – we probably carry too much food on trips like this, seeing as we keep buying fresh stuff, whatever takes our fancy, Haven’t touched the frozen veggies, still have cauliflower and broccoli left, let alone the fruit or tinned stuff. Another awesome day ended after we’d watched the sun set on Mt Cook – the clouds kindly cleared in time to watch the side of the mountain turn pink. We went to bed at 21:45.

27 October 2008
Up at 7:10 – overcast, 7⁰ and occasionally trying to spit. Off further south today. 9:14 on the road. 10:12 Just had the most wonderful breakfast at Café Matheson – well worth the money, just beautiful and the coffee was delicious. Checked out Clearwater Stream as future spot to part – stunning views and good place, but quite exposed so no good if it’s blowing too hard. Filled up with diesel at Fox (256777kms, 27.9L). 11:26 – just walked up to the terminal face of the Glacier – definitely changed since we were last here in 1996. 12:23 Went down the road just before Jacobs River, signposted Hunts Beach (why? – ‘cause we can and we’d never been there before!) and talked to some people whitebaiting and watched bait going into their net. 12:53 – Lake Paringa – stop for smoke and stretch and let dogs run. 15:43 – parked up on Haast Beach – one turn-off earlier than our “old” spot because that was already occupied – not that we mind, ‘cause this one’s actually better. We stopped in Haast for water and to get some beer at the Heritage – what a rip off, $42 for a 24 pack!! Also had a couple of beers there before finding this spot. 20:08 – have spent all afternoon sitting on the beach – cloudy to start with and then the sun came out and it was just gorgeous. And we both agree the trip was really great, but Haast Beach is our favourite spot!!! Just worked out that so far we’ve driven 1686 kms, only to decide our best spot is only 3 hours from home! We’ve just spent 5 hours sitting on the beach (Mike built a fire – of course!) and we also put the dogs on Maggie (mainly because JD is terrified of guns!) and fired the shotgun at a target Mike had made – we both fired of 4 shots and thought we’d missed as the target never moved – turns out we were using quail shot and we peppered it, just couldn’t see it happening. Had tea (pork/chinese bbq sauce/frozen veggies/rice) and hit pit at 21:48.

28 October 2008
Up at 7:20 – overcast and very humid and because of the humidity it feels a lot warmer than 9⁰. It rained hard overnight, and looks threatening to do it again, so we’ve decided to head home – were going to walk the dogs, but with rain coming again decided to hit the road. We’ve had a really, really enjoyed our trip, but now that we are this close to home we are looking forward to getting back. 8:21 rolling. 9:40 – stopped for smoke at Boundary Creek. 11:12 – HOME! 257142kms – so that’s 1,907 kms since leaving.

MacKenzie Country, 6 to 13 October 2008

6 October 2008
13:44 Getting out of here – crap weather coming and we’ve got ‘til next Monday – a whole week! Going North and right! 14:47 Filled up in Cromwell (46L), said hi to Kirsty, did some shopping and now on way. 16:10 Omarama, where we stopped in at Nev and Wendy’s and had a couple of beers before carrying on at 17:43. Went off to Lake Middleton (19Km each way off main Omarama/Twizel Road) but didn’t spin our wheels at all. On to Falstone Road, where there are supposed to be some good spots. Parked up in a flat spot at 18:52, but to be honest nothing here as good as Lake Waitaki/Aviemore. Chicken on ciabatta with Caesar salad for tea – YUM. Just chilled and talked, bed by 22:30.

7 October 2008
Up at 7:30. Rained heavily overnight, no wind now though. 5.7⁰, and once the cloud lifted a bit we could see fresh snow on the hills all around! 9:16 on the road – seems to have got colder and colder (not really but feels like it) so decided we’d get some heat in Maggie before we have showers etc. Checked out the Ohau C campsite – looks nice. And there’s other places along the road out. Stopped and checked out the free camping area beside Lake Pukaki – few good spots. Still, or rather again, raining.
13:47 Parked beside Lake Pukaki, along Mt Cook Station Road. Got to Tekapo B and carried on along the lake rather than going up the hill to the Canal Road. Neither of us have been here before, and didn’t know where we’d end up – turns out we pretty much got to the top end of the lake. Found flattish, sheltered-ish and hopefully (seeing as it’s started to P down again!) not too soft spot after much looking! Miserable weather, now 6.3⁰ and raining. So decided we’ll chill here for rest of the day – read, sleep (?) and play Monopoly, or something like that. 13:38, Had lunch (last night’s leftovers) and decided that the place is not hard enough after Mike put umbrella stand in – all the way! And it’s started to rain even harder, so no dishes, pile all in sink and get out of here. Just as well, because it had got quite slippery getting out. Got round to Tekapo B, but no where nice to park.
Absolutely pouring and getting colder all the time. Finally found a nice spot, beside the lake, just before the Salmon Farm Road joins the main highway. And then it really started to storm – wind, heavy rain and the temp dropped to 3.2⁰. Now 17:30, and it’s stopped raining and the front has gone through. We can now see the other side of the lake and the hills are covered in deep, fresh snow – lots – to pretty much just above lake level. So much for being half way through spring – it’s like winter out there. Turned out not bad once the front had gone through though – the sun came out and stayed ‘til sunset. Beautiful views, talked to a couple from WA and found some more painted rocks – these from 1999. We’d found the later ones earlier on today. Meatballs and spaghetti for tea, then shower. Now 21:50 and Mike’s still to have shower but me ready for bed!

8 October 2008
Up at 8:30 after a windy (NW) and rainy night – well, half night. Going in to Twizel to get some water etc, then probably back here as it looks like it might clear as the day goes on. Filled up with 46.19L of diesel in Twizel, got some milk and bacon, emptied rubbish and filled up with water – got dump site here, right beside Shell station! 13:35 Mike in bed reading, me about to do lunch dishes. Parked below Ohau C, opposite Falstone Road. Really lovely spot, and it was actually sunny when we got here and 10.5⁰, but clouding over again. Decided not to go back to Pukaki, ‘cause the weather there looked awful – too close to the Main Divide. So slightly east. Took dogs for a walk to the point – alternating sun and cold, cold wind and showers. Oh yes, do I need to mention that we are once again parked within hearing of a powerstation?!?!? Mike’s in heaven – once a hydro man, always a hydro man! In bed at 10pm.

9 October 2008
Good night’s sleep – woke up at 7:20 and it’s minus 0.8⁰ out, 2.3⁰ in. Brrrr. But sun’s out (sort of, in between clouds!) Mike tried to catch a fish – no luck yet. Just had brekkie – the old fry-up – and hoping the sun will keep trying. 7.7⁰ at 09:30. 12:20 – been into Twizel – toilet needed emptying (should have done that yesterday!), now back in same spot as yesterday – and it’s drying out time.
After 3 soggy days everything needed airing and drying out. This morning (in the wee hours) the condensation was literally dripping off the ceiling (straight onto my exposed back!), so it’s good to be able to open all the windows and dry out the bedding (on the various trees around the place) as it gets a bit wet around the edges and underneath the mattress. 17:27 – have had a lovely and relaxing afternoon: read paper, tried some fishing and sat in the sun and sunbathed! 26⁰ in the sun, so nice and warm - FINALLY! relaxed some more, tea, bed at 21:45.
10 October 2008
13:45 – on way to Twizel, need more food (really need to co-ordinate the emptying/filling/shopping trips into one!). Up at 7:30 and minus 1.7⁰. But now high cloud and occasional sun. Been fishing, no luck. Just relaxing is great though. Will stay here again tonight, it’s a lovely spot. 19:50 – fished played cards, fished again. Now nearly 21:00 and the outside temp is still a very balmy 12.5⁰. Yay – finally a night when you can go out and not freeze! Two very, very tired dogs – they’ve been on the go since 07:30 seeing as we’ve done a fair bit of fishing and so they run around all the time. Bed at 22:00.

11 October 2008
Up at 08:00, 8⁰. Sunny, warm-ish but a bit windy. Lazy morning, but Mike did CATCH A FISH! Nice one, too. Rest of day was spent reading, sleeping (Mike) and fishing. First day we didn’t move Maggie at all!! Now after 18:00 and still sitting outside enjoying sun!!! Diary getting shorter and shorter, and Mike commented that it’s not as detailed as 7 weeks ago. Not going to go into every single detail, but suffice to say we have eaten like kings and queens: full cooked brekkie some mornings, healthy stuff (muesli and yoghurt) others. Sandwiches for lunch, leftovers – never bad. Tea has been spaghetti and meat balls, stir fries, last night steak with broccoli and tortellini, so not bad at all. And lollies and chips for afternoon tea and pre-dinner drinkies respectively. Wines and beer every night. Gosh, life is tough! This has been our longest trip yet, and we’ve thoroughly enjoyed ourselves – despite some very bad weather at the start. We are slowly getting into a routine, and in some cases have figured out what the routine needs to be – like doing all the stuff you need to do in town all in one go!. Off home tomorrow to do “normal” stuff, like lawns, washing and gardening. PS – we’ve been fishing again in meantime and Mike, the tinny bugger, caught another fish – chocolate, that is! No, a real fish, but as Kirsty would say – a chocolate fish – it was that small. But that’s 2 fish to Mike, 0 to Marielle.

12 October 2008
Up at 7am – 1. something ⁰ outside, not a cloud in the sky. Now 09:00, been fishing – no wind and Mike caught a beautiful big rainbow. Looks like the weather is going to be gorgeous, so we’ve decided stuff the lawns – we’re staying another night! 10:48 – had breakfast, done dishes and showered. Now into Twizel to restock, empty etc. 12:50 – on way back to campsite – we stopped and watched the start of Bathurst at Top Hut Bar – not the friendliest reception, especially when we asked for Bathurst but he did chill by the time we’d had a couple – not because we’d chilled – he actually smiled! Spent the rest of the day sunbathing/fishing until sundown. No more fish caught, not for lack of trying. Played euchre. Beautiful day – warm enough to strip off out of wind and still 13.3⁰ outside at 20:05. Just about to get ready to cook tea – chicken green curry. Definitely home tomorrow as Mike has work day after, and it’s been an awesome longish trip but all ready to go home so that we can sort out everything (fan belt (cracked!) gennie (blowing smoke), lawns, washing etc.) for next trip. Bed by 22:00.

13 October 2008
Up at 06:30 – JD woke us up, but Mike had been up earlier – he had a bad night’s sleep. 1.1⁰ outside, red sky, so good time to head home. Going to have another coffee, brekkie and then sort everything out for trip home. 07:52 – on the road. Stopped at High Country Salmon and bought 1 smoked and 1 fresh fillet. 10:00 – just stopped for smoke at Lions Creek beside Lake Dunstan and now checking out Devils Creek – nice but very close to the road. 11:15 – pulling in to Clyde, 22⁰ and NW blowing – perfect for the washing! Done 629kms (255211kms).