The West Coast and back, 21 to 26 January 2011

21 January 2011
Mike got back from Wellington at about 11:30, and we are now off to the Coast.  13:21, 284183kms, 15.5°C and cloudy here.  The weather forecast is better for on the coast than anywhere else, and we don't have to be back until next Thursday for Mike to start work on Friday, so we are off over there to park up and stay for a couple of days.  But we'll have to see what the weather is actually like, and to see how bad the "black bitey bastards" are, which we've been told are pretty thick at the moment.  Left Alexandra at 14:27 after doing some shopping for supplies, getting diesel (68L) and filling up the gas bottle (4kgs).  Got to Boundary Creek at just on 16:30 and decided that was far enough for today.  
View from Maggie @
Boundary Creek
The place was pretty full, lots of people here already!  As Marielle went to take Roxie down to the beach for a play she called out to Mike to "please follow with my drink" at which point this woman's voice comes from the bus that was parked in our normal spot saying "it's normally the man that says that".  Never made it down to the beach as we got talking to Rob and Marie - who we had actually met in Clyde about a year ago, and then Mike met them at Alan & Gail Porter's place when he was having the Winegard G3 Satellite dish installed.  So got our chairs, and the chilly bin, and sat and talked to them until just before 20:00.  Went to Maggie and Mike took approximately 10 seconds to get signal on the satellite - that was quick. 
Wondered whether it was beginners luck - finding the right elevation and direction so quickly but hey, we'll take it!  But then Mike went over and helped Rob get his - so maybe Mike is just good at getting the thing set up real quick.  Anyway, watched the news on TVNZ7 (not limited to only TV1 now!) and had steak and salad for tea.  Now that we have got the pan sorted the steak (get it really hot first) was delicious!  Went to bed at 22:20.

22 January 2011
Up at 08:15 - although we were woken up earlier than that by the bloody smoke alarm "chirping" a couple of times and then it went quiet!  Didn't go off as such, just a couple of little chirps - can understand why we need a smoke alarm, but if it does this again might have to invest in a new one.  And no, it wasn't the battery - that's brand new.  Anyway, 9.5°C and the sun is rising, just hasn't made it here yet.  Had a coffee and decided to get an move on before everyone else also hits the road.  10:02 - stopped in Haast Township to dump rubbish - but no joy as they have "no glass" signs all over the rubbish bins, so couldn't get rid of our beer bottles.  How silly is that?  They (Westland District Council) provide a dumpstation and rubbish bins - but you can't dump your bottles - explains why there's broken bottles along the roads, I guess.  Filled up with water at the DoC centre and now 10:31 and parked up in the 2nd spot - the first one had another camper in it already. 


Is this REALLY
Haast Beach?

Absolutely stunning weather - so good that Marielle spent most of the day sitting outside - with the help of a little insect repellent but mainly the breeze, the sandflies were kept away and it was definitely warm enough to sunbathe - on Haast Beach!   Unheard of.  Anyway, read, relaxed and got sunburnt.  Walked along the beach and to our great delight - especially Marielle's - there was Hector's dolphins, 6 of them, playing just off shore.  At 16:00 it was still 21°C and gorgeous.  Collected firewood for tonight's tea and got the fire all ready to go.  And we are totally amazed - it was really busy at Boundary Creek last night, and we saw heaps of campers on the road while we were sitting at Boundary Creek, and we honestly thought we'd be shit out of luck getting a spot on Haast Beach.  Ok, our first choice spot had someone in it (but was empty when we went for a walk so we could have moved there if we wanted to, but decided we're ok where we are) but we have only seen 3 vehicles in here all day.  Thought it would be way busier than that - go figure - but we are not complaining, quite happy to have place to ourselves.  Watched the news (Mike had the dish tuned within 30 seconds of getting here this morning!) and "Coasters" (the new Al Brown programme about the NZ Coast).  Marielle broke one of the vanes of the gas outlet cover when her heel caught in it as she was shuffling round the table - bugger.  Won't stop the gas heating or anything working, but a bit of a nuisance.  20:25 - fire is going - going to have pork cops, corn and baked spuds for tea.  As we were just about to light the fire a station wagon pulled up and looked to be going to settle in for the night - so Mike went and asked them where they were going to shit - at which point they moved on. 
Probably go and park somewhere else and still not have a toilet, but at least it's not in our "backyard"!  And then ended up talking to people who rocked up in a car marked "Alexandra Storage"
(Hugh Clark, Devon & Pru Millar) for a while while we stood round the fire to keep the now very hungry sandflies away.
Oh, and at this time of the year, the sun doesn't set into the sea - it sets way round behind the hills of Jackson Bay.  So no "sun sinking into the water" photo's this trip - but then again, we've got enough of those.  Bed at 23:10.

23 January 2011
Up at 08:00 and another beautiful day with a slight off-shore breeze, no clouds and 15.5°C at the moment.  While we were having our coffee and admiring the view we saw this absolutely massive pod of dolphins - a wee way off shore, but close enough to see them all leaping and playing and feeding
They stretched, in a pretty much straight line, from one side to the other on the horizon!  Never, ever have we seen so many dolphins.  And at the same time, the Hector's are here too - just off the surf line.  How cool!  Left to go for a walk along the beach just on 11:00, but then thought we should go and dump and get some more supplies just in case it does get busy today and we loose our spot if we leave it too late.  All chores done and back in position at 12:07.  Went for a short walk along the beach and it was warm enough (24°C) for Mike to stand in the waves and try, unsuccessfully, not to get his shorts wet.  Spent the rest of the afternoon reading - Marielle often outside - and relaxing. 
It's been another gorgeous day and it's now 21:00 and the spuds and chicken thighs are cooking in the fire - yep, we've gone adventurous and cooked the chicken in the fire too!  Sandflies have not been too bad today, although at night fall they do get very bitey and result in shorts being swapped for jeans and socks, despite it not being cold.  Tea was delicious and we can't remember what time we went to bed, but definitely after 21:30!  Oh, watched TV again tonight!

24 January 2011
Marielle was up at 07:50, 14.5°C and decided to leave Mike to have a sleep in and took Roxie for a walk along the beach. 
Sat and watched the morning Hector's Dolphin show - a regular thing, it seems, as they've been here every day, morning and afternoon.  Awesome!  Mike cooked bacon, eggs and cheese on toast for breakfast and then we went for a massive (1.5 hour) walk along the beach to the point towards the south.  The dolphins seemed to be keeping pace with us so much that Mike remarked that we were "taking the dolphins for their walk!"  They delighted us both by 2 of them, very close in, leaping clean out of the water - like our own private dolphin show. 
We got back to Maggie at 14:15 and spent the rest of the day doing what we do best - reading, sleeping and relaxing!  Gosh, it's a tough life LOL!  Oh yes, got rid of another "shitter" (what we call those awful camper things that have no toilet facilities on board) this morning - 5 people in this one, and they arrived, and spread out like they were here to stay!  They saw the dolphins, and asked Marielle if she had too - which provided the perfect opportunity for Marielle to point out that yes, the dolphins were beautiful, just like our country and we want to keep it that way - so make sure you at least bury your waste!  So they obviously didn't like that, and moved on very quickly after that.  We are tired of people not staying in campgrounds if they have no toilets, and we are going to continue to ask them to move on.  If we don't say something we are just adding to the problem.  Anyway, just about to watch the news when another camper rocked up - this one CSC, so no worries.  Got talking and it turned out we are all from Clyde! - Neil and Christine Driver were on their way home from nearly 3 weeks round the South Island, and stopped to check out this spot for future use.  Watched TV from 18:30 onwards, had pork, fresh home-grown beans and salad for tea.  Marielle went to bed at 22:05, Mike followed after "I shouldn't be alive" had finished.

25 January 2011
Up at 07:30, 12.5°C and partly cloudy.  Can tell the weather's going to pack up later on today - the sandflies are very, VERY bitey this morning - and they have gathered in their thousands, too.  So they are telling us it's time to move - which we did at 09:15.  Went for a short detour to Hannah's Clearing to see what's happened there in the last little while - nothing much, but there is now a POP there (another gravel pit beside the road!) and there's a new house going up.  Got back to Haast and dumped everything, bought a pie for breakfast and left there at 10:44.  12:34 - have had lunch (chop chop chook sandwiches) at Boundary Creek.   Norwester really blowing here, and you can see that it's raining in the hills, so decided against staying here.  Uhmed and aahed about what we were going to do - neither of us really want to go home yet, but if the weather's going to poop itself then maybe we should.  Thought about driving over the hill to Aviemore, but seems a long way to go, especially if the weather's no good there too.  So we'll go and check out Albertown and see what that's like, and then make a decision.  Checked out Dublin Bay on the way - another one fo those roads we've always driven past and seeing as we have time thought we should check out.  Turns out that there's a lovely recreation reserve right on the lakeshore there - but no camping!  
Beside the Hawea River at
Albertown
14:00 - all set up at Albertown Camp Ground - but not where we always thought we would park. 
Mike pulled into the driveway on the opposite side of the road to where the main campground is - and when we were reading the sign, at the very bottom, is an arrow with "camping" written beside it.  Neither of us knew there was anything here, let alone camping.  So off we go, tiki tour around a bit and find the perfect possie.  What a wonderful little spot this is - well, not so little as the camping area is huge.  We are parked right beside the Hawea River, away from other people and roads (so no need to continuously keep an eye on Roxie - which she's loving 'cause she can go and explore!) and just gorgeous.  Not only that, we are tucked in completely out of the wind - can see it's blowing by the trees across the river, but we are completely sheltered.  It's overcast, but not cold - 21°C, and there's no bitey things here either - YAY!  Decided to go and check out the Hawea River Swing Bridge at 14:35 and carried on up the track a bit. 
And a bit further, and a bit further - in typical Mike fashion these days it became a "well, we're here now so we might as well carry on and have a look", and we ended up walking, and walking, and walking!  Saw another track that looked like it would take us back, round in a circle, but after walking for ages and seemingly going further and further away from where we need to be we finally decided to climb a ridge and have a look - and sure enough, we were WAY past where we should be. 
So we followed the ridge back round, to meet up with the track we originally started on.  Another "quick" walk that turned into a 1.45 hour marathon!  Phew - even Roxie was exhausted after this one!  Got back at 16:10 and sat and read until beer o'clock - and then Mike decided he had to go and check out the rest of the camp - well, just along from us, anyway, and he arrived back with
2 rubber duckies!  They had a fundraising duck race on the Hawea River last weekend, and these guys obviously got caught up - so we now have (temporarily, I hope) 2 rubber duckies, a Bart (found last year at Aviemore) and Russ sitting in the windscreen - becoming a bit of a gypsy wagon!  Watched the news and Coro Street and had stir fry (chicken, veggies and honey soy sauce) for tea.  Marielle hit the pit at 22:10, Mike at 22:30.  Oh, and we are totally amazed and pleased with the Winegard Sat dish - we did have some small concerns as you hear stories about them being difficult to tune, etc etc, but Mike has got it nailed within 30 seconds everytime, and it's not at all difficult.

26 January 2011
Up at 08:20 (which seems like a sleep in but not really as Mike was up and down all night - he just couldn't sleep!), cloudy and 17°C.   Went into Wanaka and bought some more draftstop (for the bottom of the flyscreen door, to stop bugs coming in) and also went to Puzzling World - haven't been there for years.  Great - you pay $9 per person to go into the Illusion Rooms - which is good fun, until someone points out to you that you have just spent $9 to make yourself feel sick!   Still worth it though, but have to admit, the wonky room does bad things to your mind!  And then back into Wanaka because Mike had said that we were going to do lunch "at that seafood place".  Well, what a find that turned out to be - The Reef, it's called, and we had the most fabulous seafood platter for two. Mussels, salmon, salt & pepper calamari, scallops, salad and chips - delicious.  At $58 it might seem a bit expensive, but we were absolutely chokka after eating it all (and we did not eat any tea that night, still full from lunch!) so we thought it was extremely good value.  Will definitely go back there and have it again.  And with that we decided to head home - the weather is getting darker and cooler, so we might as well.  Got home at 13:45, 284720 kms - which is a 537kms trip.  (And PS - it started to rain just after we got home, and it pelted down for the rest of the afternoon, clearing up at around 5pm-ish.)

Omarama, Waitangi and Trotter's Gorge, 8 to 11 January 2011

8 January 2011
13:03, 283623kms, 19.5°C and full on sun.  Off to see Wendy and Nev for tonight and then after that we'll see.  First time in ages Nev and Mike have had time off at the same time, so we thought we'd use the opportunity and catch up with them.  The weather forecast is good for the next week, so we should be ok until Tuesday afternoon, when we have to be back anyway as Mike starts day shift again on Wednesday.  Marielle drove from Lion's Creek (just outside Cromwell) as Mike needed to have some more sleep, having only finished night shift this morning.  Had a sandwich at Lion's Creek, after doing some shopping at Cromwell New World.  Got to Omarama at 15:15.   Had a great night catching up with Wendy and Nev, although some of us might have drunk a wee tad too much!  Marielle hit the pit at around 23:00, Mike followed 2 hours later, after having talked the ears off Wendy and then trying to convince Nev that he should join him in bed (oh, dear - what next?!? LOL).

9 January 2011
Very slow start to the day - Marielle definitely not feeling too good today (blame the shots!).  Hung around at Wendy and Nev's 'til the world seemed slightly less evil, left Omarama at 15:29 and got to just below Waitangi camping reserve on the shores of Lake Aviemore at 16:53.  
Spill at
Benmore Dam
 Did stop at the Benmore Dam and do the real tourist thing and took photo's of the spill.  Anyway, here is a lovely spot and beautiful weather with full sun and 25°C. Normal Aviemore southerly is starting though, so we parked Maggie so that we could enjoy the sun whilst using her as a wind break. 

Beside
Lake Aviemore

Sat and enjoyed weather and watching the windsurfers, yachties and kite surfers - very entertaining viewing.  
Had early tea (butterfly pork and fresh corn) and Marielle into bed at 21:00, Mike following about 1/2 hour later.
10 January 2011

Spill at
Waitaki Dam

Marielle up at 08:22 after a fantastic sleep.  15.5°C and starting to cloud over a bit.  Opened the door to let Roxie out after getting dressed and got a fright because I opened the door in time to see Roxie jumping out in front of a car!  But it was ok - it was the camp supervisor coming to collect our $15 donation and he was driving slowly!  Had showers and breakfast (Bacon, eggs and mushrooms on toast) and headed south. 

Spill at
Aviemore Dam

No plan as to where we are going, but we did have to do the tourist thing again and go and see the spill at the Aviemore Dam, and the Waitaki.
So seeing as we'd got that far, decided we might as well carry on to Oamaru.  Checked out Fleur's new place - the Loan and Merc - at the Oamaru waterfront, thinking we could do lunch, but we didn't fancy a ploughmans, which is all they're doing at the moment.  So got Chinese instead - combination chow mein and decided we'd go and get some more go-go juice for the Maggot, some ice and some crackers to go with the cheeses we'd bought from the Whitestone Cheese factory (Windsor Blue for Marielle and Mt Kyeburn (manuka smoked cheddar) for Mike) and now (14:30) off to Trotter's Gorge - one of those places Mike's been talking about for ages. 
Stopped at our usual veggie stall and got fresh peas and some more apricots - Mike had bought some apricots when we were waiting for the Chinese to be cooked and they were so delicious we ate them all - pretty much - at lunch time, so had to get some more.  And then we had a very close call at a bridge on State Highway 1 just outside of Hampden - a bloody tractor had stopped on the bridge, right on a blind corner.  Just as we got there, a bus coming from the opposite direction had decided to overtake the tractor - so the car in front of us, and us, had to throw out the anchors!  Chilly bin, generator and fuel contained all came flying down the length of Maggie to meet us in the cab, Roxie nearly had the life squeezed out of her as she was lying, asleep, on Marielle's lap at the time - but all's well that ends well.  But if we ever meet the stupid young idiot who parked the tractor in the middle of the bridge, and was running back to it as we got past (to hop into it and carry on driving!!!!!) - well, goes without saying we won't be too nice to him!  Shook us up a bit so we stopped to have a fruit icecream! 
 
Mike at
Trotter's Gorge
Caves
Got to Trotter's Gorge at 15:30 and decided to go for a walk to check the place out before settling in.  



Steep track!
Walked to the Caves (didn't even know they have them here) and then carried on - up, and up, and up.  Finally convinced Mike to turn around when we were pretty much at the top - it had been a serious climb, and we had no water, no extra clothes or even any decent footwear on, so carrying on seemed even more foolish than what we'd already done :). 

Trotter's Gorge
Campsite
It's now cloudy - cloud cleared this morning and has been beautiful all day until just after leaving Oamaru, and it was only 14.5°C when we got here.  Sat inside and feasted on peas and cheeses, with the heater on, watching the place fill up.  Funny and very entertaining watching people pitch tents and  cook out of the back of these spaceship-type campers.  Anyway, we felt quite spoiled - having our heating, gas cooker and cold beers in the comfort of our lovely Maggie!  Cool spot here though - and incredibly cheap - only $6 per campsite.  And dog's are ok - even though it's a DoC site!  Filled up pretty quick though - it's not huge.  Had the aforementioned chicken for tea, on salad and went to bed at 22:00. 

11 January 2011
Up at 07:56 and it's drizzling and only 10°C!  Perfect timing, I suppose, as we'd have had to go back today no matter what.  So we literally had a coffee and hit the road - at 08:26.  Got stuff to do in Alexandra on the way through anyway (like picking up our new 12V TEAC 15" LCD TV - colour, no less LOL!  Couldn't resist it - it was such a good deal at only $299 plus $39 for the 12V adaptor), and this way we've got heaps of time.  Took the Horse Range Road leaving Trotter's Gorge - as shame it was low cloud and drizzling because the rock formations give the place a very different feel and look to most other places around.  Over Horse Range Summit (240m) and down into Palmerston, where we stopped for a MacGregor's pie each for breakfast.  
Oteake
Conservation Area

10:42 - just checked out the Oteake Conservation Area - always driven by, on the way home, but as we've got time and it's only 7kms off the main road we thought "why not?".  Most unusual place - in the middle of nowhere, and very much high-country landscape.  But that's not what is so unusual - what's unusual is that it's DoC land and yet you are allowed to shoot, motorbike and 4WD everywhere!  Home (after picking up not only the TV, but also some - now discontinued but our favourite - mushroom soup powder) at 12:10.  284159kms on the clock, which means a trip of 536kms!


12 Mile Delta, 1 to 3 January 2011

1 January 2011
Happy New Year!!  May it be better than 2010, for lots of reasons (JD, Christchurch earthquake and the Pike River Mining disaster, to name the major things!).   Anyway, been a while since we've been away in our Maggie - still finishing fence, Christmas visitors etc. etc.  But now about 14:30, 283426kms on the clock, 23.5°C and sunny-ish and we are off to Queenstown.  And we are on a mission - Mike is in the wee car (his Mum's old car) and Roxie and Marielle in the maggot, as we are delivering the wee car to Cody, who is now living in Queenstown and is having a few issues getting to and from work.  He currently has to catch 3 buses to and from, and because the buses don't run early enough, he's actually getting to work too late.  So, we are giving him one more helping hand to actually make something of his life, and have given him the wee car.  Right thing to do?  Time will tell.  Anyway, pretty slow trip through to Queenstown, as the wee car decided it's gearbox wasn't going to cooperate and decided not to change up from 2nd all the way from Cromwell to Queenstown.  Fortunately it wasn't busy on that particular stretch of the journey (unlike Clyde to Cromwell, which was very busy), so we didn't cause any delays.    Dropped the car off at Cody's, saw Kirsty and got to 12 Mile delta about 17:15 - sorry, times pretty inaccurate - seem to keep forgetting to look at the clock!  We had actually thought it might be a bit of a fight to find a spot here, given that it's at the height of the holiday season and so we were very, very surprised to find hardly anyone here!  Maybe it's because the redevelopment isn't quite finished, but there is certainly plenty of room.  The camp looks a bit of a mess at the moment, because a large part of the area is just bulldozed flat, but with time, once the trees etc. grow we think it'll be ok. 
Anyway, we walked all around the camp checking out the changes, beers in hand!  Decided that next time we come here we'll bring the truck and boat too - the boat ramp is now pretty cool but still need at 4WD to launch a boat.  Seeing as this is only an hour from home and a lovely spot we thought "Why not?".  Sat outside until it got just a wee bit cooler (although not cold, so we must just be too used the heat, because the wee bit cooler was actually 19.5°C!).  Lovely evening and we really enjoyed being away in Maggie again, and just relaxing.  You can try and relax as much as you want, but nothing is quite as relaxing as relaxing on Maggie!  Had tea of garlic prawns on a bed of mashed spud and kumara - YUM! - (was meant to be last night's tea, but we ended up going across the park to Blair and Anita's to celebrate New Year's and never quite got round to tea!).  Bed at around 22:30.
 
2 January 2011
Marielle up at 08:20 - YAY, a sleep in!  Mike awake, but kept dozing for a while - oh, I said it last night, but the joys of relaxing on Maggie!  Was quite windy during the night, and the forecast for today is rain, but there's no sign of that at the moment and it's not cold as it's 17°C.  Had breakfast (precooked sausages and eggs on toast) and now 22.5°C, 11am and we are off for to take Roxie down to the creek to cool down. 
 Well, that turned into a 2.5 hour walk!  Ended up not just taking Roxie down to the creek, but walked the 12 Mile Track to almost Bob's Cove - almost, because we got to a sign that said "carpark, 20 mins" and decided we'd bring Maggie round to the carpark next time and walk in from there! 

Had a sandwich for lunch and spent the rest of the afternoon reading, puzzling and nana-napping!  No sign of the forecast rain yet, but it is getting darker and muggy - currently (at 13:45) 23°C.  And the rain arrived at 16:30 - just a little to start with, but steady from the moment it started.  Played cards and sat and watched the free comedy show put on for us by other campers.  By this stage things had cooled down considerably (about 15°C) and it was really raining.  So you'd think if you were looking for a place to spend the night, you'd rock up to somewhere like 12 Mile, find a spot quick smart and park up.  Oh no - people arrived, tore round and round the place trying out this spot and that (a bit like a dog going round and round one way, then the other, trying to make a bed!)  - and quite a few of them left again.  Obviously they have no idea that 12 Mile Delta is the last stop before Glenorchy, and the only freedom camping area anywhere round Queenstown!  And they also obviously have no idea that when it's raining, with cloud down to ground level - who cares where you are parked, as long as it's dry and level?  Anyway, provided several amusing moments for us, during the rest of the evening!  Had chicken and freshly picked home grown beans for tea and hit the pit at 22:30 (yep, that's 2 "late" nights (for maggie-time, anyway) in a row!).  Still raining when we went to bed, quite heavily.
3 January 2011
°C so we'll probably have a coffee or tow and then head on home.  Mike's got work tomorrow anyway, so we'd have had to go home regardless of the weather. 
It did stop raining after we'd had a coffee, so we decided to go and check the creek - what was just on ankle deep yesterday when we waded across it coming back from our walk is now a raging torrent that would easily be well above thigh level!  Yep, it rained alright.  09:05 - we're off.  09:05:01 - nope, we are not going anywhere - dead truck battery!  Bugger.  No sooner have we got one lot of power sorted (namely the house batteries) and then we have another battery problem.  We will have to get our sound sorted so that it runs off the house batteries (have had the radio going pretty much all the time we've been here, and that runs off the truck) because getting the house batteries out to jump start the truck is no fun - especially not now that we have 2 in the small compartment that houses the house-batteries - it's a bit of a mission to get them back in again.  Anyway, pulled out the smaller house battery, but that didn't have enough oomph left in it, so out comes the big battery - 40kgs of it! - and that did the trick.  Ok, handy that we have got our own backup starting batteries, but not ideal, 'cause they could have been too low to start the truck.  So we are really going to have to sort this out - ideally, have a radio that runs off the house batteries, and a solar panel - that would be ideal.  Oh, yes, and a jump start pack!  One day.  Anyway, finally rolling at 09:30.  Then stopped and said hi to Kirsty, drove past Cody's place but his curtains still closed so carried on.  Filled up with diesel (and didn't record how many litres or the odometer reading - how slack!) and had BK for breakfast before leaving Queenstown at 10:47.  And then the driving fun really started!  Who's mad idea was it to go somewhere at this time of the year, and at this time of the day!?!?!?!?  Can see why people get so frustrated with campervans - had a couple in front of us who seriously held everyone up.  But then, we had to hit the brakes because some dickhead decided he just HAS to beat us (a camper!) even though we're zipping along at 100kph.  Do people not get that it's the rental vans you have to watch out for - the privately owned ones, like ours, handle just like a car and can happily travel at over 100kph (wind and hills aside)?  So pulling out in front of us and making us brake makes us mad!!  Especially when we've just stopped at Freeway Orchard to get a fruit icecream and the people behind the counter are more interested in talking to each other about looking after cats than they are in serving you - so we left empty handed and frustrated!  Anyway, got home at 11:55, 283623kms.  Oh, and the rivers everywhere are up and very, very dirty - especially the Shotover/Kawarau.  Have to say though - despite the minor frustrations getting home - it has been just wonderful to get away again.  Fence be buggered - not leaving it that long again between trips!